Mopar 5184168AB Valve Guide Seal

Valve spring and defected valve stem seals can be retailed just by changing the gasket, it only involves 2 tools and air compressor. Start by unbolting the valve cover from the cylinder head and, if you are dealing with a V6 car which has all the stem seals' replacement, the removal of both valve covers is expected. Subsequently, unthread the spark plug situated in the cylinder in question and, in case of replacement of all seals, undo all the spark plugs. Rotate the crankshaft of the engine until top dead center of piston of the cylinder in question on the end of the compression stroke with cylinder 1 and further by firing order. Insert an adapter in the spark plug hole and attach an air line connected to a compressed air. If one cannot have compressed air, put the piston approximately 45 degrees before the TDC on the compression stroke and insert a long nylon rope through the spark plug hole to the combustion chamber and allow the strand of nylon rope to hang out for easy retrieval. There are metal trims usually located round the valve spring area; use shop rags to pack the holes in the cylinder head to avoid dropping of the various parts Go ahead and compress the spring and remove the keepers using a valve spring compressor. Pull the spring retainer, shield, and the valve spring and then pop out the umbrella type guide seal. If the air pressure could not close the valve tight, the valve face or seat could be damaged and required head off for further work. Put a band or tape around the top of the valve stem to avoid dropping it in to the combustion chamber and deflate the tire. Check for any blemish on the valve stem; if the stem gives a binding impression in the guide then the head has to be detached to be rectified. Applying pressure with air to keep the valve closed then you can take off the tape or rubber band that you used. Turn the valve stem clockwise to coat it with engine oil and fit a new guide seal: some differ between the intake and exhaust sides. Again, orient the spring and cover the valve and then, the spring retainer pushing the spring to align the keepers at the groove, use a little grease to hold the keepers flat. Now you can take off the pressure from the spring tool in order to let the keepers sit in their place, then it is just disconnected the air hose and pulled out the adapter from the spark plug hole. Last of all, put in the rocker arm(s), spark plug(s) incorporating their wire(s), valve cover(s) and commence the engine and look out for any traces of oil leakages; or any strange noises originating from the vicinity of the cover.

Starting with the cylinder which is housing the defective part remove the valve cover and the spark plug; if valve stem seals are all being replaced, all spark plugs should be removed. Thread the crankshaft until the piston of the cylinder to be worked for the purpose reaches the top dead position on the compression stroke if all the valve stem seals of the engine are to be changed, beginning from cylinder no 1 in case of progressing in firing order. Insert an adapter into the hole of spark plug and attach an air hose to a container with compressed air; usually one can find this at auto part shops. Screw out the rocker arm and pivot for the valve with the damaged component, pull out the pushrod and use compressed air to hold the valves since their gaps are filled with air. In case the valve faces or seats get worn or damaged the application of air-pressure to retain the valves may not work. If compressed air is not available, place the piston just prior to TDC on the compression stroke, insert a long piece of nylon rope through the spark plug hole and with the business end submerged in the fuel, crank the engine until there is mild resistance felt. Push shop rags into the cylinder head holes so that parts do not fall in the engine, use a valve spring compressor or an ordinary screw driver to compress the spring and then remove the keepers by twisting them with the small pliers or a magnet. If the pressure of the air does not close the valve then the face or the seat of the valve is likely to be worn and this could only be rectified by removing the cylinder head. Twist around a rubber band or some tape round the top of the stem so that it does not fall into the combustion chamber, then deflate the pressure gauge and have a look at the stem for damage, especially, if it is bent it will show eccentricity. Check that the valve floats freely in the guide ; if the valve gets stuck the valve or guide must be refitted and the head has to be removed. Just apply some normal pressure to operate the valve to close and then remove the tape or rubber band. coat the valve stem with the engine oil/fit a new guide seal then the spring and the shield over the valve. Place the valve spring retainer down on the valve stem, compress the spring and capture the keepers into the groove put a little grease on the keepers to hold them in place. Take weight off the spring tool and check that the keepers are seated, finally shut off the air hose and withdraw the spark plug hole adapter and the rope if used. Last, the rocker arms and pushrods, spark plugs and wires must be remounted, the valve cover replaced, the engine started, and if the car produces oil leak and other sounds originating in the valve cover area.

Remove the rocker arms and the spark plug from the cylinder with the defective component; if all valve stem seals are being replaced, remove all spark plugs. Turn the crankshaft until the piston in the affected cylinder is at top dead center on the compression stroke, starting with cylinder number one and working on one cylinder at a time, following the firing order sequence. Thread an adapter into the spark plug hole and connect an air hose from a compressed air source. Apply compressed air to the cylinder and stuff clean shop rags into the oil-drain holes in the cylinder head to prevent parts and tools from falling into the engine. Use a valve spring compressor to compress the spring, then remove the keepers with small needle-nose pliers or a magnet, being careful not to drop them. Remove the spring retainer and valve spring, then take out the valve guide seal/spring seat assembly. Wrap a rubber band or tape around the top of the valve stem to prevent it from falling into the combustion chamber, then release the air pressure. Inspect the valve stem for damage, checking for eccentric movement and binding in the guide; if binding occurs, the head will need to be removed for repair. Pull up on the valve stem to close the valve, reapply air pressure to retain it in the closed position, and then remove the tape or rubber band. Lubricate the valve stem with engine oil and install a new valve guide seal/spring seat assembly, tapping it into place with a deep socket. Install the spring over the valve, then the valve spring retainer, compress the valve spring, and carefully position the keepers in the groove, applying a small dab of grease to hold them in place if necessary. Remove the pressure from the spring tool and ensure the keepers are seated, then disconnect the air hose and remove the adapter from the spark plug hole. The remainder of the installation follows the reverse order of removal. Start and run the engine, checking for oil leaks and unusual sounds from the valve cover area.