Mopar 4668918AA Axle Half Shaft

Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it on jackstands. Block the front wheels and remove both rear wheels. Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Remove the center console. Pull up on the parking brake cable, directly behind the parking brake lever, and insert a punch to relieve tension. Detach the parking brake cables from the equalizer. Unbolt the brake line brackets from the trailing arms. On models with rear disc brakes, remove the brake calipers, brake disc, hub, bearing assemblies, and parking brake shoes. On models with rear drum brakes, remove the brake drums and shoes. For models with an Anti-lock Braking System (ABS), remove the wheel speed sensors and detach the sensor harnesses. Detach the parking brake cables from retaining clips, actuators, or levers, and backing plates. If replacing the axle, remove the hub, bearing assemblies, and spindles. Remove the coil springs. Position a floor jack beneath the axle and mark the position of trailing arm brackets to the floor pan. Unbolt the trailing arm brackets, lower the jack, and remove the axle assembly. Inspect the axle pivot bushings for damage. For installation, reverse the removal process ensuring brackets are reinstalled correctly, brake lines and cables are routed properly, marks align, fasteners are tightened to the correct torque, and the brake system is bled.

Drive is transmitted from the transaxle to the wheels by the two axle shafts; the inner end of each axle shaft is splined to mesh with the side gears of the differential. The axle shafts can be withdrawn to renew the oil seals, outer ends have splined to the front hubs and retained by a large nut. Each axle shaft assembly consists of an inner and outer constant velocity (CV) joint linked by an axle shaft; both inner ends are conventionally equipped with a tripot joint on all models to provide for angular as well as axial motion. Inner CV joints allow relative motion in relation to the axle shaft and with the wheel, for example, during restoration movements; if the boot fails, the joints can be disassembled and cleaned; however, any damage to the corresponding regions requires a completely new axle shaft assembly. The outer CV joint like a ball-and-socket design is capable of only angling movement without axial movement: the CV joint can be exposed and then be cleaned and re-packed if the outer boot has been split, though, if these parts are damaged, the whole axle shaft assembly will have to be changed. Regular checks should be made to ascertain if boots have been damaged or are leaking lubricant; this is because, if a CV joint boot is torn, the joint will have to be replaced expeditiously. Changing of boots entails the detachment of the axle shaft but shoppers may access 'split' types of boots which can be interchanged without dismantling. This is an easy option, but it is advised to take out the axle shaft as well as the CV joint in order to be able to check for contaminants that might have infiltrated the joint assembly, which will hasten wear. Signs that indicate your CV joints are worn or damaged are greasy stains on the outside of the boots, clinking sounds during turns and thumping sounds when accelerating after coasting, and feeling or hearing vibrations at highway speed. To inspect the wear in the CV joints and axle shafts grasp each axle individually and rotate the CV joint housings while observing and feeling for play between the splines or sloppy CV joints and while inspecting the axle shafts for crack or dent or distortion.

Before disassembling of the axle shaft, the front wheel lug nuts need to be unscrewed, the car has to be lifted and properly positioned on jackstands and the wheel has to be detached. Second, unscrew the hub nut cotter pin and then take the old cotter pin also, because in the process of assembly, a new cotter will be required. Remove the lock and the spring washer from the axle shaft hub nut and using a large socket together with a breaker bar, loosen the axle shaft/hub nut. In case the vehicle has an anti-lock brake system, remove the harness of the front wheel speed sensor and place it to one side. While it is not required to drain the transaxle lubricant prior to the removal of the axle shaft, it is preferred, should the transaxle be close to the lubricant-change requirement. Pull the tie-rod end free from the steering knuckle, unscrew the balljoint that attaches it to the steering knuckle then use a prybar to force the lower control arm apart from the other component. To free the axle shaft from the hub splines: strike the end of the axle shaft gently with a soft-faced hammer, if it is stuck a puller may be required. Draw out on the steering knuckle to disengage the axle shaft from the hub and swing the outer end of the axle shaft down. If any leakage is observed on the axle shaft, these usually occur at the differential seal, then the seal will be requiring changing once the axle shaft has been removed. When inserting the needle bearing, for a non-turbo right axle shaft use a prybar against the inner joint and pry it off the transaxle side gear and retaining clip, or tap the inner joint off the intermediate shaft with a brass punch in a turbo model. Do not pull on the inner joint with the axle shaft in order to prevent cases of damaging the part. This one requires a little more care not to over bend the inner joint or to tear the axle shaft boots off. The same must be done for the left axle shaft; however, when doing this, care must be taken not to pull on the inner tripot joint. If the vehicle has to be shifted when the axle shaft is removed, put a large bolt with the washers through the hub. If a leaking axle shaft seal was identified, there is a seal replacement procedure possible. For installation reverse the removal steps and also apply an equal layer of multi-purpose grease on the splines of inner joint. Before pressing the snap-ring home against the transaxle side gear, hold the axle shaft straight out and press in sharply, then attempt to pull the axle shaft out. Remove any debris at the threads of the axle shaft outer CV joint, apply the spring washer and tighten the nut to the recommended torque, and while doing this it was important that you also tightened the hub nut. Insert the nut lock and another cotter pin; turn both of the ends round the pin to the extent of 90 degrees at least. Last, fix the wheel and lugs then drop the vehicle, tighten the lugs to the required amount and also check the transaxle level; add if necessary.

It is supplied in pairs of axle shafts, the inner end of which is splined to be married to the side gears of the differential and the outer end is splined and locked to the front hubs of the car through a large nut. There are two constant velocity joints, an inner and an outer one linked by an axle shaft, at the inner CV joints there are tripod joints that allow angular and axial motion of the axle shaft as it travels with the wheel to allow the inner CV joints to move in-and-out. It is however possible to disassemble the joints in case of a boot failure though in case of any damage of these parts it is required to replace the whole axle shaft. The outer CV joints are ball and socket for angular motion only; if an outer boot is damaged these joints can be cleaned, and repacked but if the parts are damaged, the whole assembly has to be replaced. Lubricant leakage from the boots or any damage in the CV joint boots must be replaced at once, as it may lead to joint damage; the boots should be inspected regularly. The replacement of boots usually necessitates the withdrawal of the axle shaft; nonetheless it is possible to fit the so-called "split" boots which do not demand the removal of the axle shaft - it is rather convenient but it is recommended to remove the CV joint and wash the contaminations that may intensify the decay of the boot. Signs and symptoms of worn or damaged CV joints are; leakage of lubricating grease, noise like a coarse clicking during turning, and a clunking sound when accelerating after coasting, and vibrations felt usually at highway speeds. To inspect it for wear, hold each axle separately and try to rotate it while holding the CV joint housing so as to try and feel for any loose splines or worn CV joints as well as look for distress signs such as cracks on the shafts and dents or distortion.

If you want to take out the axle shaft, get rid of the hub nut cotter pin and get a new one in case of reattaching the axle. Set the parking brake down really well and with the spare tire still on, consult a large socket and breaker bar to loosen the axle shaft/hub nut. Finally, remove the front wheel by unscrewing the nuts of the wheel lugs, lift the car by use of a jack, and ensure it is well supported by jack stands. While it's not necessary to drain the transaxle lubricant, it is recommended that, if the time is due in terms of mileage, then it should be done. Disconnect the tie-rod end from the knuckle, as well as the ball joint bolt and nut from the knuckle; pull the lower control arm down to release the assembly. To release the axle shaft from the connectors of the hub splines, it is necessary to put the end lightly and carefully to the hammer; if the axle shaft remains strongly fixed, then it is required to apply a puller. Screw off the outer CV-joint nut and pull out on the steering knuckle in order to detach the axle shaft from the hub if needed, then hook the outer end of the axle shaft with a bungee cord or wire. Be sure to look at the left side of the differential for evidence of lubricant leakage around the seal; if the axle shaft has not yet been removed, it may be taken out and the seal replaced before continuing. To remove the right axle shaft, place a pry bar under and against the inner joint to pry the same off the transaxle side gear and its corresponding retaining clip; care has to be taken not to pull the inner joint as this may lead to destruction of the same. Lift up the axle shaft assembly whilst avoiding the exhaustion of the inner joint or damaging the axle shaft boots. The same can be done for the left axle shaft and it is important to pull straight out not to cause any problems. If the vehicle is to be moved while the axle shaft is removed, fit a large bolt with the washers through the hub then tighten the nut. For installation of the new or cleaned joint, reverse the above stated removal procedures, spread an even lip of multi-purpose grease on the splines of the inner joint. When installing it is important to hold the axle shaft straight and push it in sharply to ensure that the snap ring is seated in the groove in the transaxle side gear. Thus, it is recommended that one pull the axle shaft out by hand to check the seating of the snap-ring. Scrape or wipe off any foreign materials deposited on the threads of the axle shaft outer CV joint after which the spring washer and the nut should be fitted before tightening the hub nut within the recommended torque. Last, place nut lock and the next cotter pin and dam it by bending the ends right off, fit new wheel with lugs nut and slowly drop the vehicle and tighten the lugs nuts to the right torque while pouring in the transaxle lubricant if necessary.