Start any work by unplugging the black cable first, and leave it on last to prevent accidentally draining the battery. To check the battery state of charge, observe the indicator eye on the top of the battery: The eye on top of the battery shows three states: green (75-100 percent charge), black (0-75 percent charge), and clear (low electrolyte levels). You must replace maintenance-free batteries when the eye turns clear since you cannot add water to them. For easy batteries, fill with distilled water up to the indicated line. Recharge the battery, then check that the
Alternator is giving the right voltage to save yourself from having to refill low-electrolyte levels again. Check your battery's voltage with a voltmeter, doing an open circuit test; it must reach at least 12.4 volts when fully charged, after removing the battery's surface charge. Apply a 50 percent load of the battery's CCA rating for a maximum of 15 seconds, watch for voltage falling below 9.6 volts with a battery load tester. Playing it safe, disconnect the car's cables, remove the retainer bolt, pull the clamp off, then lift the battery out. Before reinstalling, look below to make sure the battery tray is clean and rust-free. Cleans problematic areas with a baking soda solution and applies a special paint to stop metal from rusting. Put in a new battery, but only choose one designed like the old one. These steps disconnect the B+ cable from the fuse box, remove the fenders holding the electrical unit, detach the actuator control, and free the battery tray. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery plus wiring harness, and take out both headlights before you can easily detach the upper battery tray. Lift up the car, take off the left front wheel, and the protector shielding the wheel well's inner part. Installation is the reverse of removal.