Chrysler 4273275 Crankshaft Oil Seal

Drain the engine oil, then remove the timing belt and crankshaft sprocket. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the oil pan; note that it is possible to remove the seal without taking off the oil pan if a special seal puller tool is used. Working underneath the vehicle, remove the bolts and detach the oil seal housing. Use a punch and hammer to drive the old seal out of the housing, ensuring not to damage the seal bore by wrapping the tip of the punch with tape. Thoroughly clean the seal bore in the housing and the seal journal on the end of the crankshaft, removing small burrs with emery cloth or 400-grit sandpaper. If a groove has been worn in the seal journal from contact with the seal lip, installing a new seal may not stop the leak, indicating that the crankshaft or the main bearings may be excessively worn, suggesting an engine overhaul is needed. Apply a thin coat of R1V sealant to the surface of the seal bore, lay the housing on a clean, flat work surface, position the new seal in the bore, and tap it into place with a soft-face hammer, ensuring the seal lip faces the proper direction towards the engine. Lubricate the seal lip with multi-purpose grease and apply a 1 mm wide bead of anaerobic gasket sealant to the engine block mating surface of the seal housing. Position the housing on the engine, install the retaining bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque. Reinstall the crankshaft sprocket, timing belt, and related components, then install the oil pan. Check the engine oil level and add oil if necessary. Start the engine, let it warm up, and check for leaks.

While retaining the seal retainer to alter the old seal and use it to place a new one, it is possible but unsuitable because it is easy to cause a nick or scratch of the crankshaft or the seal bore and it may damage the lip of a new seal. If removing the oil pan and the retainer is not preferred, the following method is the recommended way to change the rear Crankshaft Seal: first, dismantle the transaxle, then proceed to the complete removal of the oil pan. After that, turn the rear Crankshaft Seal retainer bolts and, eventually, the retainer. To aid in the process of sealing, you should take your retainer and place it in a bench vise, then using a screwdriver, pry out the old seal. When installing the new seal, the retainer should be placed on a clean flat surface, then with the help of a block of wood and a hammer, the seal should be hammered in. ON THE MATING SURFACE OF THE RETAINER USE RTV SEALANT. Putting on a clean coat of oil on the seal lip, position the retainer and tighten the retainer bolts to the recommended torque value. The rest of the installation is exactly the opposite of the removal process, which has just been described here.

With the timing belt and sprockets, the oil pan, and the intermediate shaft sprocket removed for access, unbolt and remove the oil seal housing retaining bolts for both the 2.2L (top) and 2.5L front oil seal housing. Use a punch and hammer to drive the old oil seal from the housing. Apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the inner surface of the housing, place the new seal in position, and carefully tap it into place with a soft-face hammer. Lubricate the inner circumference of the seal with white lithium-base grease and apply a 1 mm bead of anaerobic gasket sealant to the engine block mating surfaces of the seal housing. Position the housing on the engine, install the retaining bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque.

Do not rotate the camshaft(s) or crankshaft when the timing belt is removed or damage to the engine may occur. Begin by removing the timing belt. Next, detach the crankshaft timing belt sprocket from the crankshaft using a bolt-type gear puller, and remove the Woodruff key from the crankshaft keyway. From below the right inner fender, carefully pry the seal out of its bore, taking care to avoid damaging the oil pump assembly, the crankshaft, and the seal bore. Clean and inspect the seal bore and sealing surface on the crankshaft; minor imperfections can be removed with emery cloth, but if a groove is worn in the sealing surface, a new seal may not stop the leak. Lubricate the new seal with engine oil and use a hammer and the appropriate size socket to drive the seal into the bore until it is flush with the oil pump housing. Install the Woodruff key and the crankshaft timing belt sprocket with the word FRONT facing out on the crankshaft. The crankshaft timing sprocket must be installed with special tool 6792 to ensure correct timing belt tracking; incorrect installation may lead to timing belt damage. Finally, reinstall the remaining components in reverse order of removal and tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to the specified torque. Start the engine and check for oil leaks.

With the timing belt and sprockets, the oil pan, and the intermediate shaft sprocket removed for access, unbolt and remove the oil seal housing retaining bolts for both the 2.2L (top) and 2.5L front oil seal housing. Use a punch and hammer to drive the old oil seal from the housing. Apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the inner surface of the housing, place the new seal in position, and carefully tap it into place with a soft-face hammer. Lubricate the inner circumference of the seal with white lithium-base grease and apply a 1 mm bead of anaerobic gasket sealant to the engine block mating surfaces of the seal housing. Position the housing on the engine, install the retaining bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque.