Jeep 4884469AD Cylinder Head

As with any other procedure, there are certain concomitant tools and it is only wise to read through the whole process then order for these tools. Begin with the removal of fuel System pressure and removing the negative battery cable from the remote ground terminal. Remove the coolant by pulling the cock so as to drain the cooling mechanism and then unbolt the air filter housing and the coolant recovery bottle. If the front bank cylinder head is being removed, then locate and remove the cooling fan and shroud assembly and then the alternator. Third, eliminate the upper intake manifold, the fuel rail and the lower intake manifold. For any reason it is necessary, the ignition coils and spark plugs have to be disconnected and the exhaust manifold has to be disconnected from the selected cylinder head to be taken out. Raise the vehicle and drain the power steering pump along with fluid line, remove the valve cover, rocker arms and shafts. Secure the engine with an engine hoist and then remove the crankshaft pulley, the timing belt covers, the Timing Belt and align the TDC, if the belt will be re-used, mark the direction of rotation. unscrew the bolt of camshaft while rotating the hex of camshaft sprocket with a wrench but carefully, camshaft two sprockets in addition to their bolts are unique. Take the camshaft thrust plate off the back of the head to move the camshaft back and out of the way to take the sprocket and bolt off. Remove the bolts fastening the rear timing belt cover to the cylinder head but leave all the other timing belt cover bolts undone. Carefully place a new head gasket on the head bananas and using a pen mark the cardboard with the position of the front of the engine and mark the cylinders and the bolt pattern on the cardboard for a precise storing of each cylinder bolt after removal. Turn each cylinder head mounting bolt a quarter turn counter clockwise and continue until they can be unscrewed by hand Turn the bolts in reverse order that they was tightened and place the bolts in the cardboard holder. Raise the head(s) up off the block, don't dirty the surfaces that are to be mated, and if there is significant resistance, check for some overlooked head bolts; if there isn't any, then try using a hammer and a piece of wood to break the gasket-seal. After removal it should be placed on wooden blocks so that the gasket surfaces are not damaged. If the camshaft has to be inspected or replaced, then it is possible only when the cylinder head is removed from the engine. For installation, make certain that both mating surfaces of each cylinder head and block are clean, the application of gasket scraper is required to remove all carbon and old gasket material, wipe off with lacquer thinner or acetone. Inspect the block and head mating surfaces and where there are slight nicks or scratches file them off but if there deep damages then you should machine the surface. Tap the holes in the head with a tap of the right thread size and check cleaned head bolts for stretch. Place the new gasket on the dowel pins in the block in the correct manner; gently place the head on the block on top of gasket. If you are changing the timing belt, securely snug down the timing belt bolts in the recommended sequence to the torque specifications, install the rear timing belt cover-to-cylinder head bolts and snug them down also. Now, the camshaft has to be slid back into the position in the cylinder head; the camshaft sprocket and new bolt installed and tightened by applying force on the hex on camshaft sprocket with a wrench on the camshaft bolt at the same time. The camshaft thrust plate has to be fitted at the back of the head and the bolts need to be tightened to the recommended torque; a new O-ring should be used. The remaining process of the installation is the inverse of the removal process. Last but not the least, drain the engine oil and filter, replace it with fresh oil and filter, fill up the cooling system, operate the engine and, inspect for any leaks.

Before lifting the car, first loosen and remove the lug nuts and wheels from the right front side, raise the front of the car, then put it on secure jackstands. Take off the right front wheel, and afterward remove the splash shields and inner fender liner. Pull the number one piston to top position. Break your car's power battery connection by detaching it from the ground terminal. Hold the engine cover, lift it up straight from the ball posts, and take it off. Get rid of old coolant first. Then pull the spark plugs out. Remove the air filter housing. Remove the coolant reservoir. Pull out your power steering reservoir while keeping the lines connected, then set it somewhere where it won't get in your way. Remove the drivebelts. Before beginning work, cover the engine's intake ports with duct tape to keep dust and particles from entering. Detach the bolt holding down the power steering hose bracket, then unscrew the pump bolts from its front mount and save it aside without letting the hoses disconnect. Remove the exhaust manifold. Remove the ignition coils and spark plugs. Remove the valve cover. Take off three parts of your car - remove the water pump pulley, the air conditioner compressor, and the bracket that holds both of these in place. Remove the timing chain cover and timing chain. Raise the hand of the cylinder head and take off the rotor valve from its base before removing and putting aside the lifters on the cambores. When removing the cylinder head's bolts, turn them 1/4 turn counterclockwise, following the opposite order from installation. You can then remove them easily by hand. Write down where each bolt goes so you reinstall them correctly. Except for two lower bolts on the timing chain side, the cylinder head bolt washers stay in place permanently. Gently lift and put the cylinder head on wood supports so it won't scrape the sealing pieces when removed. When the head won't move away from the block, break it free by hitting the casting with a wooden block or prying it loose with a crowbar. Carefully handle the seals, and test the head for possible misshapen patterns before working further. After lifting off the cylinder head, grab the WT filter using needle nose pliers and remove it from its spot on the engine block. Clear all old gasket material from both block and head, using special cleaning chemicals if needed. Take your time to avoid losing anything inside the engine while carefully looking at and cleaning all the threaded connections. Place your new filtering device or carefully cleaned one into the port at the right front corner of your engine block. Put just two tiny drops of RTV sealant where the timing chain meets the block face. Carefully set the freshly installed gasket and the engine head onto the engine block. Stop using any head bolt when you notice thread gaps while measuring with a straightedge or ruler. Rub clean engine oil on the threads of the cylinder head bolt before putting it in place. Set the washers on the first two head bolts with their wider flat side facing up. Carefully tighten the head bolts by a specific method, working through each sequence in order, until you reach the required force. To properly torque the cylinder head bolts, check which type your engine uses because two different styles have been employed. When tightening, you must do it by a certain number of degrees, and an angle-torque gauge will help you get it right. If you don't have an angle-torque gauge, draw marks on head bolt heads and tighten each bolt, one at a time, until the mark shows the required number of degrees from its starting position. Reinstall the timing chain and cover. Afterwards, you simply do the opposite of what you did to take it apart. Add fuel and changed the engine oil with filter installation. Turn the crankshaft forward by hand in small circle motions. Do this action six times, then go back to check the camshaft timing lines. Turn the engine on and have it reach usual running temperature. Keep watch for drips and verify everything functions correctly.