Mopar R5633411AB Cylinder Head

Position the number one piston at Top Dead Center, relieve the fuel system pressure, then disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Drain the cooling system and remove the coil packs, spark plug wires, and spark plugs. Remove the intake manifold, covering the intake ports on the manifold and cylinder head with duct tape to keep out debris and contamination. Remove the power steering reservoir and hoses, then the exhaust manifold, noting that the exhaust manifold is easier to remove after the cylinder head is detached. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing and the electrical connector from the camshaft position sensor, as well as the connectors from the fuel injectors. Remove the timing belt, camshaft sprockets, idler pulley, and rear timing belt cover, followed by the camshafts, rocker arms, and valve lash adjusters. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in the reverse order of the tightening sequence until they can be removed by hand, taking care to note the location of different length bolts. Carefully lift the cylinder head straight up and place it on wood blocks to prevent damage, dislodging it if necessary. Remove all traces of old gasket material from the block and head, using special gasket removal solvents if available, while being cautious not to gouge the aluminum sealing surfaces. Place clean shop rags into the cylinders to keep out debris, use a vacuum to remove contamination, and chase the threads in the engine block with a tap of the correct size. Inspect all threaded fasteners for damage, particularly the cylinder head bolt threads for "necking," and replace any damaged bolts. Have the cylinder head and head bolts cleaned and inspected by a qualified automotive machine shop. For installation, place a new gasket and the cylinder head in position on the engine block, apply clean engine oil to the cylinder head bolt threads, and install them in their original locations. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence, progressing in three stages to the specified torque, and after the third pass, tighten the bolts an additional 90-degrees. Install the rocker arms and hydraulic valve lash adjusters, followed by the rear timing belt cover, camshafts, and camshaft sprockets. Install the timing belt, then slowly rotate the crankshaft manually through two complete revolutions and recheck the camshaft timing marks. The installation of the remaining components follows the reverse order of removal. Refill the cooling system and check fluid levels, then start the engine and run it until normal operating temperature is reached, checking for leaks and proper operation.

Make sure the engine has come to room temperature before you go ahead and free the cylinder head bolts. Take the connection of the cable with the negative terminal of the battery, then, un-bolt the intake manifold and disconnect the wires and vacuum hoses belonging to the cylinder heads and label them for reuse. Remove the bypass wires of the ignition, and take out the spark plugs, being sure to mark the wires at the same time. Take off the exhaust manifold, valve covers, rocker arms and the push rods. Taking a new cylinder head gasket put the contour of the cylinder head including the bolt locations on the cardboard with arrows showing the front of the engine. Remove the cylinder head mounting bolts one at a time in the reverse of the pattern used while tightening, turning each a quarter turn apart from finally placing them in a cardboard holder. Remove the cylinder heads from the engine carefully without scratching the mating surface; if there is much resistance, look for any bolt that might have been left out and which will require you to use a hammer and a wooden block in order to loosen the gasket. When removed, it is recommended to put cylinder heads on wooden planks in order to avoid scratching. The cylinder heads should also undergo through the services of a professional automotive machine shop. Make sure that each cylinder head mating surface and the engine block mating surfaces are free from any form of carbon deposite and old gasket material before installation using gasket scraper to scrape off the deposits and then wiping the surface clean with either lacquer thinner or acetone. If you had to use a file on the mating surfaces, it should be checked for nicks or other forms of damage; if you have to machine the mating surfaces, again check for nicks or other forms of damage. Bring a tap to run in the cylinder head bolt holes. Align the new gasket over the dowel pins in the engine block, make sure the markings if any, are facing upwards and towards the front, and place the cylinder head over the engine block in a similar manner so as not to displace the gasket. Carefully examine each cylinder head bolt for necking-down or stretching by holding it on a straight-edge; replacing all bolts that do not touch the straight-edge. It is recommended to tighten the head bolts in the recommended sequence and to the specified torque, then to tighten them again to the same torque as a check, and then to turn them additional 90 degrees the same sequence without using a torque wrench. If you have removed the components in a clockwise direction, then installation of the remaining components is done in a similar anticlockwise sequence.. Replace the oil and the filter, fill the cooling system, power up the engine and look for leaks and proper functioning.

Cleaning of the cylinder head(s) and most of the associated valve train parts, then inspection, will allow for a determination of the kind of valve service work that will be required during the engine reconditioning depending on the head condition, especially if the engine was severely overheated as the head can be warped. It is recommended that all signs of old gasket material and sealant should be removed with care from the head gasket, intake manifold, and exhaust manifold and from the cylinder head, the best tool to use are gasket removal solants, which are obtainable from auto part shops. Deposits have to be scraped from all around the built-up scale which has come from the coolant passages and stiff wire brush has to be passed through several holes. It is necessary to use an appropriate size tap in each threaded hole to remove the corrosion and thread sealant, and use compressed air to blow away the debris, and while doing it, one needs to wear eye protection. It can be recalled that the rocker arm bolt threads have to be cleaned using a wire brush while the cylinder head has to cleaned using solvent and dried before the installation of the bolt, using compressed air in order to dry all the holes and recessed parts. Chemical derivatives to help remove carbon deposits can be employed for cleaning but ought to be used as per the guidelines given. The individual rocker parts should be wiped clean using solvent and must be dried with no intermingle of the rocker arms and lent-free air should be used to blow off the oil ways. All valve springs, spring seats, keepers and retainers should be washed in solvent and then wiped dry It is good practice to work on one valve at a time and not mix up the parts. Depositions on these valve should be scraped off through brushing and next use a motorized wire brush in cleaning the heads and stems of the valves while ensuring that the valves are arranged.

Regardless of whether the head was sent to an automotive repair shop for valve servicing, ensure it is clean before beginning reassembly. If the head was sent out for valve servicing, the valves and related components will already be in place, allowing you to start the reassembly procedure. Begin by installing the spring seats or valve rotators, if equipped, before the valve seals. New seals should be installed on each of the valve guides; gently tap each seal into place using a hammer and a deep socket or seal installation tool until it is completely seated on the guide, ensuring the valve stem seals are installed evenly and carefully to avoid damage. Avoid twisting or cocking the seals during installation to ensure proper sealing on the valve stems. Starting at one end of the head, lubricate and install the first valve, applying moly-base grease or clean engine oil to the valve stem. Position the valve springs and shims, if used, over the valves, compress the springs with a valve spring compressor, and carefully install the keepers in the groove, then slowly release the compressor to ensure the keepers seat properly. A small dab of grease can be applied to each keeper to hold it in place if necessary. Repeat this procedure for the remaining valves, ensuring that components are returned to their original locations without mixing them up. Check the installed valve spring height with a ruler graduated in 1/32-inch increments or a dial caliper; if the head was sent out for service work, the installed height should be correct, but do not automatically assume it is. The measurement is taken from the top of each spring seat to the bottom of the retainer, and if the height exceeds specified limits, shims can be added under the springs to correct it, but do not shim the springs to the point where the installed height is less than specified. Apply moly-base grease to the rocker arm faces and the shaft, then install the rocker arm assembly on the cylinder head, followed by the installation of the camshafts, hydraulic lash adjusters, and rocker arm assemblies onto the head.

It is also important to allow the engine to cool before you let go of the cylinder head bolts. Starting with the elimination of the negative terminal of the battery connection, then the intake manifold must be removed. Remove all wires and vacuum hoses that are on the cylinder head(s), additional put labels on all to help with reconnection process. Disconnect the ignition wires and spark plugs with plug wires being labeled preferably. Remove the exhaust manifold bolted to the to be removed cylinder head and unbolt the valve cover(s). Take out the rocker arms and the pushrods. Taking a new head gasket, draw cylinders and the bolt pattern on cardboard with the front of the engine mentioned, and mark the bolt holes. Turn each of the cylinder head mounting bolt about 1/4 turn in an anti-clockwise direction, keep removing the bolts in the sequence opposite to the tightening sequence, and put all the bolts in the cardboard holder for re-use. Loosen the head(s) from the engine, be very gentle because there is no need to pry between the head and the block. If resistance is encountered get a feel for possibly missed head bolts and employ the hammer and wood method to crack the gasket surface and be careful of dowel pins. After removal freese the head on wooden blocks to prevent any damages to the gasket surfaces. For installation it is important that the mating surfaces of each cylinder head and block be free of anycarbon and old gasket material that, using the gasket scraper, they should be cleaned thoroughly with lacquer thinner or acetone. Sprinkle shop rags on top of the litter valley so that no debris goes into the engine and eliminate any that falls into the cylinders. Examine the block and head mating surfaces for wear and tear, take with a file for minor deviation and for significantly distorted, turn to machining. Clean up the threads in the head bolt holes with a tap of the right size to guarantee the right torque figure. Align the new gasket over the dowel pins in the block such that, if the block has any markings, they face the appropriate way. Arranging the head gently on the block so that the gasket does not slip and examined the cylinder head bolts for elongation, and replace them if they are. Torque the bolts to a 45 ft-lbs and in the specified sequence and torque again to 65 ft-lbs. Turn each of them (except one) an additional 90-degrees beyond the initial torque, and do not use the torque wrench on this step, turn the last of them to 25 ft-lbs. Do all of the rest of the steps in reverse order that they came off and do the oil and filter.