Before lifting the car, first loosen and remove the lug nuts and wheels from the right front side, raise the front of the car, then put it on secure jackstands. Take off the right front wheel, and afterward remove the splash shields and inner fender liner. Pull the number one piston to top position. Break your car's power battery connection by detaching it from the ground terminal. Hold the engine cover, lift it up straight from the ball posts, and take it off. Get rid of old coolant first. Then pull the spark plugs out. Remove the air filter housing. Remove the coolant reservoir. Pull out your power steering reservoir while keeping the lines connected, then set it somewhere where it won't get in your way. Remove the drivebelts. Before beginning work, cover the engine's intake ports with duct tape to keep dust and particles from entering. Detach the bolt holding down the power steering hose bracket, then unscrew the pump bolts from its front mount and save it aside without letting the hoses disconnect. Remove the
Exhaust Manifold. Remove the ignition coils and spark plugs. Remove the valve cover. Take off three parts of your car - remove the water pump pulley, the air conditioner compressor, and the bracket that holds both of these in place. Remove the
Timing Chain cover and timing chain. Raise the hand of the cylinder head and take off the rotor valve from its base before removing and putting aside the lifters on the cambores. When removing the cylinder head's bolts, turn them 1/4 turn counterclockwise, following the opposite order from installation. You can then remove them easily by hand. Write down where each bolt goes so you reinstall them correctly. Except for two lower bolts on the timing chain side, the cylinder head bolt washers stay in place permanently. Gently lift and put the cylinder head on wood supports so it won't scrape the sealing pieces when removed. When the head won't move away from the block, break it free by hitting the casting with a wooden block or prying it loose with a crowbar. Carefully handle the seals, and test the head for possible misshapen patterns before working further. After lifting off the cylinder head, grab the WT filter using needle nose pliers and remove it from its spot on the engine block. Clear all old gasket material from both block and head, using special cleaning chemicals if needed. Take your time to avoid losing anything inside the engine while carefully looking at and cleaning all the threaded connections. Place your new filtering device or carefully cleaned one into the port at the right front corner of your engine block. Put just two tiny drops of RTV sealant where the timing chain meets the block face. Carefully set the freshly installed gasket and the engine head onto the engine block. Stop using any head bolt when you notice thread gaps while measuring with a straightedge or ruler. Rub clean engine oil on the threads of the cylinder head bolt before putting it in place. Set the washers on the first two head bolts with their wider flat side facing up. Carefully tighten the head bolts by a specific method, working through each sequence in order, until you reach the required force. To properly torque the cylinder head bolts, check which type your engine uses because two different styles have been employed. When tightening, you must do it by a certain number of degrees, and an angle-torque gauge will help you get it right. If you don't have an angle-torque gauge, draw marks on head bolt heads and tighten each bolt, one at a time, until the mark shows the required number of degrees from its starting position. Reinstall the timing chain and cover. Afterwards, you simply do the opposite of what you did to take it apart. Add fuel and changed the engine oil with filter installation. Turn the crankshaft forward by hand in small circle motions. Do this action six times, then go back to check the camshaft timing lines. Turn the engine on and have it reach usual running temperature. Keep watch for drips and verify everything functions correctly.