Genuine Dodge Nitro Crankshaft

Crank Shaft
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3 Crankshafts found

  • Diagram for Dodge Nitro Crankshaft - 53020959AB
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    Product Specifications
    • Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by Mopar's factory warranty.
    Fits the following Vehicles:
    • 2007-2011 Dodge Nitro | Heat 2WD, Heat 4WD, SE 2WD, SE 4WD, SLT 2WD, SLT 4WD, SXT 2WD, SXT 4WD | 6 Cyl 3.7L
  • Dodge Nitro Crankshaft - 4892108AA
    Diagram for Dodge Nitro Crankshaft - 4892108AA
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    Product Specifications
    • Other Name: Pulley
    • Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by Mopar's factory warranty.
    Fits the following Vehicles:
    • 2007-2011 Dodge Nitro | Detonator 2WD, Detonator 4WD, Heat 2WD, Heat 4WD, Shock 2WD, Shock 4WD, SLT 2WD, SLT 4WD, SXT 2WD, SXT 4WD | 6 Cyl 4.0L
  • Dodge Nitro Crankshaft - 68027448AA
    Diagram for Dodge Nitro Crankshaft - 68027448AA
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    Product Specifications
    • Replaced by: 68253758AA
    • Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by Mopar's factory warranty.
    Fits the following Vehicles:
    • 2007 Dodge Nitro | SLT 2WD, SLT 4WD

Dodge Nitro Crankshaft

The Dodge Nitro Crankshaft is basically the engine's heart. When it spins, its crankpins push the pistons up and down. This up and down push slowly transforms into smooth spinning power. Finally, it is this spinning motion that turns gears and drives wheels. The Crankshaft journals are cushioned by oil, and offset throws enable the connecting rods to convert thrust into rotation. The base versions applied cast iron, but stronger forged steel served high output trims, giving all Dodge owners a Crankshaft that is matched to their actual power needs. Whether the Nitro engine is breathed in or breathed out, the message is the same: remain balanced, hold oil, and last the full life of a Nitro engine with proper care. The absence of oil or abrasive material can cause scars on the journals of a Nitro engine, signaling failure with a knocking noise prior to the complete seizure of the Crankshaft. In the repair process, components are stripped off, the block is lifted, and numbered caps are removed. After that, the new Crankshaft with new bearings is lowered and specific torque is applied to it. The final taps along with a test spin establish freedom before the block returns to the Dodge bay, which is a tough job taking about three hours. Changing the oil in your Dodge Nitro often will keep it quiet by protecting the journals and bearings from wear.

Looking for affordable and high-quality auto parts? Then you have already arrived at the proper online shop. We offer all Dodge Nitro Crankshaft at great affordable prices. Moreover, all genuine Dodge Nitro Crankshaft come with a manufacturer's warranty. In the long run, you would realize you have saved a lot of trouble and money with OEM parts from here.

Dodge Nitro Crankshaft Parts Questions & Experts Answers

  • Q: How can the crankshaft be removed from the engine after it has been taken out of on Dodge Nitro?
    A:
    The crankshaft can only be removed after the engine has been taken out of the vehicle, assuming that components such as the flywheel, crankshaft pulley, timing chains, oil pan, oil pump body, oil filter, and Piston/connecting rod assemblies have already been detached. For 2.4L four-cylinder engines, the balance shaft carrier assembly must be taken off. Before removing the crankshaft, measure the endplay using a dial indicator aligned with the crankshaft. Pry the crankshaft to the rear, zero the dial indicator, then pry it to the front to check the reading, which should typically be between 0.003 and 0.010 inches. If a dial indicator is unavailable, feeler gauges can be used to determine clearance. Loosen the main bearing cap/bedplate fasteners gradually until they can be removed by hand, then carefully pry off the main bearing caps/bedplate, ensuring not to damage the surfaces. Lift the crankshaft out of the engine, ideally with assistance, and reinstall the main bearing caps/bedplate finger-tight. For installation, ensure the engine block and crankshaft are clean and inspected. Position the engine block upside down, remove the main bearing caps/bedplate, and clean the bearing surfaces. Lay new upper main bearing inserts in the block, ensuring oil holes align, and place lower inserts in the caps/bedplate. Clean the crankshaft and lay it in position, then check the main bearing oil clearance using Plastigage. If the clearance is acceptable, carefully scrape off any Plastigage residue. For final installation, clean the bearing insert faces, apply a thin layer of grease or engine assembly lube, and lay the crankshaft back in place. Apply sealant to the bedplate sealing area, install the main bearing caps/bedplate, and tighten the fasteners in sequence. Push the crankshaft forward to seat the thrust bearing, then tighten the fasteners to the specified torque. Recheck crankshaft endplay and rotate the crankshaft to check for binding. Finally, install the new rear main oil seal and, for 2.4L engines, reinstall the balance shaft carrier assembly.

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