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Genuine Dodge Nitro Valve Stem Seal
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4 Valve Stem Seals found
Dodge Nitro Valve Stem Seal
The Dodge Nitro Valve Stem Seal restricts oil from seeping past the valve stem and entering the cylinders, thus protecting power and regulating oil consumption. The Valve Stem Seal, placed on top of each valve guide, creates a tight yet low friction seal that allows movement of the stem yet blocks more lubricant to keep compression up and plugs clean. This little ring that works with the valvetrain on every Dodge engine applied in the compact Nitro SUV opens intake and exhaust passages as the cam turns. No matter if the vehicle has an earlier overhead valve layout or a later overhead cam setup, the Valve Stem Seal does the same job because its design is not centered on cam position but sealing. Over the years, improved materials helped boost heat resistance, but Dodge never fully embraced a different design for the Nitro, so fit and function remain unchanged. Conducting routine inspections of your Dodge Nitro's Valve Stem Seal can highlight signs of wear. When a Valve Stem Seal hardens or cracks, the rising oil use and blue smoke signal trouble.
Looking for affordable and high-quality auto parts? Then you have already arrived at the proper online shop. We offer all Dodge Nitro Valve Stem Seal at great affordable prices. Moreover, all genuine Dodge Nitro Valve Stem Seal come with a manufacturer's warranty. In the long run, you would realize you have saved a lot of trouble and money with OEM parts from here.
Dodge Nitro Valve Stem Seal Parts Questions & Experts Answers
- Q: How can broken valve springs and defective valve stem seals be replaced without removing the cylinder heads in four cylinder engine on Dodge Nitro?A:Freeing and valve stem seals can be replaced without removing the cylinder heads; by using two special tools; and compressed air. Start by pulling out the spark plug out from the cylinder in question or all plugs if replacing all valve stem seals. Rotate the crankshaft in such a manner that the piston of cylinder number one is put at the top dead center and continue to do the same in the firing order. Take out the Camshaft(s) and Rocker Arm(s) and then screw on a spark plug adapter, from which an air line to compressed air is connected. Take the compressed air and blow into the cylinder and for avoiding parts to fall inside the engine stick the shop rags into the oil drain hole. Compression of the valve spring is done using a valve spring compressor others by using needle nose pliers or a magnet to remove the keepers then finally removing the spring retainers and finally compressing the spring. I always pull the valve guide seal/spring seat assembly out and I have realized that if the air pressure cannot hold the valve closed then I am faced with the Cylinder head removal complication. To ensure that the valve stem does not drop into the combustion chamber place a rubber band, or a tape around it, then deflate the tire and make a check up on the stem to see if has got any damages. Check that the valve can travel up the guide; if stiff the valve or guide may be distorted and the head will have to come off. Turn the valve off by twisting its stem clockwise, reinflate the cylinder and finally, recall the tape or rubber-band that was used. Add engine oil onto the valve stem before fitting of the new valve guide seal/spring seat assembly which is driven using an appropriate deep socket. Place the spring on the head of the valve over the valve, fit the retainer on the valve spring, compress the spring on the head of the valve and fit the keepers in position and in-case they are loose grease them to hold them in position. Take weight off the spring tool in order to 'drop' the keepers back into their housing, release the air hose from the valve, and finally remove the adapter from the spark plug hole. Proceed with the other parts of the installation in the reversed order, turn the engine on and look for signs of oil leakage and strange noises coming from the region of the valve covers.
