Mopar 2852729 Wheel Bearing, Inner

In most cases, front wheel bearings do not require servicing until the brake pads or shoes are changed, but they should be checked whenever the front wheels are raised. With the vehicle securely supported on jackstands, spin the wheel to check for noise, rolling resistance, and free play. Grasp the top and bottom of the tire and move it in and out on the spindle; noticeable movement indicates the need for bearing inspection, repacking with grease, or replacement. To remove the bearings, start by taking off the hub cap and wheel, then remove the disc brake caliper or brake drum if applicable. Fabricate a wood block to keep the brake pads separated, slide the caliper off, and hang it out of the way without damaging the brake hose. Pry off the hub grease cap, straighten and remove the cotter pin, and take off the nut retainer, spindle nut, and washer. Pull the hub assembly slightly out and push it back to remove the outer bearing, noting its installation. The hub assembly can then be pulled off the spindle, and the inner bearing lip seal can be pried out from the rear side of the hub, allowing for the inner bearing to be removed as well. Clean all parts with solvent, inspecting the bearings and races for damage; if races need replacement, it is advisable to seek professional help. Pack the bearings with high-temperature grease, applying a thin coat to the spindle and a small quantity inboard of each bearing race. Place the grease-packed inner bearing into the hub, add more grease outboard, and install a new seal, tapping it flush with the hub. Carefully place the hub assembly onto the spindle, pushing the outer bearing into position, then install the washer and spindle nut, tightening it to 35 ft-lbs of torque while rotating the wheel. Add grease outboard of the outer bearing, ensure the spindle nut is tight, then loosen it by a turn. Hand-tighten the spindle nut until snug, install a new cotter pin, and adjust the nut if necessary to align the slots. Bend the cotter pin ends flat against the nut and cut off any excess length. Install the dust cap with a rubber mallet, then if applicable, reinstall the brake caliper, tire/wheel assembly, and tighten the lug nuts. Finally, check the bearings again by grasping the tire, lower the vehicle, tighten the lug nuts, and install the hub cap if equipped.

A special tool is required for tightening and loosening the bearing adjusting nut and locknut, and there is no wheel bearing adjustment for early model 44FBJ axles (full-time 4-wheel drive). Begin by raising the vehicle and securely supporting it on jackstands. For model 60 axles, remove the hub cap and snap-ring, then take off the flange nuts and lock washers. If equipped, remove the locking hub assembly. Straighten the lock ring tabs as necessary and use the bearing spanner to remove the outer locknut and locking. The Dodge/Plymouth tool for this purpose is tool No. 00-1241-JD for model 60 axles or No. C-4170 for 44FBJ axles. With the bearing spanner and a torque wrench, tighten the adjusting locknut to 50 ft-lb to seat the bearing, then back off the adjusting nut and retighten it to 30 to 40 ft-lb. While rotating the hub, back off the locknut 136° to 160°. Assemble the outer lock washer and locknut, tightening the nut to 50 ft-lb for model 44FBJ axles or 66 ft-lb for model 60 axles. Bend one ear of the lock washer over the inner nut and the other ear over the outer nut for model 60 axles only. Check the end play by grabbing the top and bottom of the tire and moving it in and out on the spindle; it should be 0.001 to 0.010 inch. For model 60 axles, install the drive flange and flange bolts with a new hub gasket, tightening the flange bolts to the specified torque. Finally, install the snap-ring and hub cap, along with the locking hub assembly if equipped, then remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.