To withdraw axleshaft from 44FBJ axles one has to remove cotter pin and the outer axleshaft nut and lift front of the vehicle and secure on jackstands. Depress the brake to get a better view before taking off the wheel and tire, taking off also the brake caliper as it should be wired somewhere out of the way. After that, it is required to remove the hub from the spindle. In the case of the 44FBJ axle the brake adapter has to be unbolted from the steering knuckle while for the full-time 4-wheel drive axles the bearings have to be pulled out of the steering knuckle using a pry bar. For part-time 4-wheel-drive models, unbolt the nut and washer on the spindle, give it a few taps with a soft-hammer to free it up then pull out the spindle / splash shield. Take out the splash shield mounting bolt and the splash shield from all models of full time 4-wheel-drive vehicles, as well as the O-ring and inner oil seal mounted on the steering knuckle if equipped. Very gently, withdraw the axleshaft assembly and, using a tie-rod puller, disconnect the tie-rod from the steering knuckle. On the left side you will also need to detach the drag link from the steering knuckle arm, followed by the elimination of the nuts and the cone washers on the steering knuckle arm. To remove the dowels you can gently knock the steering knuckle arm with a soft faced hammer and remove the tapered dowels with the steering knuckle arm. Locate and free the cotter pin and nut from the upper and lower balljoints then, separate the steering knuckle from the axle housing yoke, in the same process and while doing it make a check on the spindle needle bearings, the bronze spacer as well as the grease seal on the off chance they are worn out then replace them. For the 60 axle unscrew the mounting nuts on the brake adapter/spindle assembly and pull the assembly out then very gently pull the axleshaft out of the axle casing. The tie-rod puller should be used to pull off the tie-rod from the steering knuckle, the drag link should be pulled off from the steering knuckle arm, the nuts as well the upper knuckle cap should be removed from the steering knuckle arm. Loosen the bolts of the lower knuckle cap and then retire the knuckle cap and then the steering knuckle from the axle housing yoke. For 60 axle installation grease must be applied to the upper socket pin and the lower socket cavity on the axle housing yoke, then install the steering knuckle and the knuckle cap or caps and torque the bolts to the prescribed amount. Replace the left side steering arm bolts and fasten them, and the rest of the processes of installation you should do inversely, but all fasteners screw of the steering linkage should be tightened to their toque limit. Screw in the wheel bearings and drop the car. For the 44FBJ axle, replace the old upper balljoint sleeve with a new one on the side of the axle housing yoke that will be attached to the vehicle body such that around two threaded turns will be visible on the exterior side; the steering knuckle should then be clamped onto the axle housing yoke and a new lower balljoint nut should be fitted and tightened to the prescribed torque. Secure the upper balljoint sleeve and fit the upper balljoint nut where a cotter pin can be placed. Do the reverse of what has been stated above for the rest of the installation and ensure that if your vehicle has full time 4-wheel-drive axles, it is fitted with a new O-ring and that the retainer face is fitted with RTV-type sealant before fitting the bearing retainer. Last, screw in the hub and the brake caliber assembly, put the wheel bearings back in, and drop the car.
