Mopar R4748046AC Starter Motor Reman

If the starting circuit malfunctions, do not immediately assume the starter is at fault. Check the battery cable clamps for cleanliness and tightness, inspect the battery cables, and test the battery's condition. Examine the starter solenoid wiring and connections, ensure starter mounting bolts are tight, and verify the ignition switch circuit's correct operation. Check the Transmission Range switch (automatic transaxle) or clutch start switch (manual transaxle) and their adjustments. Also, test the starter relay located in the fuse/relay box in the engine compartment. If the starter does not engage when the ignition switch is turned to start, check for battery voltage at the solenoid to confirm if it's receiving the correct signal from the ignition switch. Inspect fuses and relays related to the starting system if voltage is absent. If the starter turns over slowly, perform a cranking voltage and current draw test with the starter assembly on the engine. The battery voltage should not drop below 8.0 volts (manual transaxle) or 8.5 volts (automatic transaxle) during cranking, and the current draw should be between 250-400 amps. If values are off, replace the starter. If the starter receives voltage but doesn't activate, remove and bench-test the starter/solenoid assembly. Verify proper solenoid and starter motor function, considering rare cases of engine seizure.

Disconnect the battery and solenoid cables, then remove the starter mounting bolts. Raise the vehicle and remove the B+ cable and solenoid connector. Remove the starter and spacer, and install in reverse. Don't forget the spacer and to tighten the bolts.

Before diagnosing starter problems, ensure that the battery is fully charged. If the starter motor does not turn when the switch is operated, check that the shift lever is in Neutral or Park for automatic transaxle models. Additionally, make sure the battery is charged and all cables at the battery and starter solenoid terminals are clean and secure. If the starter motor spins but the engine does not crank, the over-running clutch in the starter motor may be slipping, requiring replacement, or the teeth on the flywheel/driveplate may be broken. If the solenoid clicks but the starter motor does not operate, the issue may lie with the battery, main solenoid contacts, starter motor itself, or a seized engine. If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard when the switch is actuated, it may indicate a bad battery, burned fusible link, or defective solenoid. To check the solenoid, connect a jumper lead between the battery (+) and the ignition switch wire terminal on the solenoid. If the starter motor operates, the solenoid is fine, and the problem may be in the ignition switch, neutral start switch, or wiring. If the starter motor still does not operate, remove the starter/solenoid assembly for disassembly, testing, and repair. If the starter motor cranks the engine at a slow speed, ensure the battery is fully charged and all terminal connections are tight. If the engine is partially seized or has the wrong viscosity oil, it may crank slowly. Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached, then turn it off and disconnect the primary wires from the coil or coil pack. Connect a voltmeter positive lead to the positive battery post and the negative lead to the negative post. Crank the engine and take voltmeter readings as soon as a steady figure is indicated, ensuring not to let the starter motor turn for more than 15 seconds at a time. A reading of 9 volts or more, with the starter motor turning at normal cranking speed, is normal. If the reading is 9 volts or more but the cranking speed is slow, the motor is faulty. If the reading is less than 9 volts and the cranking speed is slow, the solenoid contacts are likely burned, the starter motor is bad, the battery is discharged, or there is a bad connection.