Prior to removing the piston and connecting rod assemblies, the cylinder head and oil pan must be taken off. First, use your fingernail to check for any ridges at the upper limit of ring travel, approximately 1/4-inch down from the top of each cylinder. If ridges are present due to carbon deposits or cylinder wear, they must be completely removed with a special tool, following the manufacturer's instructions, as failure to do so may result in piston breakage. Once the ridges are cleared, turn the engine so the crankshaft is facing up. Before removing the main bearing cap assembly and connecting rods, check the connecting rod endplay with feeler gauges, ensuring the play is equal to the thickness of the gauge(s). If the endplay exceeds the service limit, new connecting rods will be necessary. Identify the connecting rods and caps with marks; if not marked, use a small center-punch to create indentations. Loosen the connecting rod cap nuts or bolts gradually until they can be removed by hand, then take off the number one connecting rod cap and bearing insert without dropping the insert. For V6 engines, protect the crankshaft journal and cylinder wall by slipping a short length of plastic or rubber hose over each connecting rod stud during removal. Push the connecting rod/piston assembly out through the top of the engine using a wooden or plastic hammer handle, ensuring all ridge material has been removed if resistance is felt. Repeat this process for the remaining cylinders, noting that new connecting rod bolts must be installed on four-cylinder engines during reassembly. After removal, reassemble the connecting rod caps and bearing inserts in their respective rods and install the cap bolts finger tight, leaving the old bearing inserts in place until reassembly to prevent accidental damage to the bearing surfaces. Avoid separating the pistons from the connecting rods.