Chrysler 53021585AD Crankshaft Oil Seal

Remove the crankshaft pulley. Remove the timing belt. Use a two-bolt puller to remove the crankshaft sprocket, with the bolts threaded into the holes in the sprocket. With a hammer and punch, tap the dowel pin out of the crankshaft. Drive the pin into the hollow, threaded area of the crankshaft snout, where it can be extracted with a small magnet. Pry the old seal out with a hook-type seal tool, being very careful not to scratch the seal surface of the crankshaft. Note how the seal is installed - the new one must be installed to the same depth and facing the same way. Lubricate the inner lip of the new seal with engine oil and drive it in with a seal driver or large deep socket and a hammer. Installation is the reverse of removal. Tap the dowel pin back into the crankshaft, with 3/64-inch extending out.

One-piece rear Crankshaft Seal used in V8 engines that is installed in a bolt-on housing. In order to replace the seal, the transmission, torque converter, and driveplate have to be removed. The seal can be removed by prying it out of the housing with a screwdriver, taking care not to damage the crankshaft surface. It is important that you note how deep the current one goes before removing it so that you install another one at the same depth. Ideally, use a tool made specifically for installing seals to press this new seal in place. However, if such a tool is not available, carefully tap it into place with a large socket or blunt object. Since the edge of this type of seal is hard and stiff, they should be gently eased onto the crankshaft's lip to avoid causing any harm on them. Another option would require removal of rear Crankshaft Seal housing which means removing oil pan as well. In such cases replace both gasket and rear Crankshaft Seal with new ones. If you remove this housing unit you're simply driving out your old seal using small punch before wiping clean your housing and putting light coat of engine oil over new seals then snap it into its position straightly from above using wooden piece and hammer respectively then attach your seal housings using bolts ensuring to insert fresh gasket between them. The remaining installation steps are the reverse of the removal procedure.

All models employ a one-piece rear Crankshaft Seal fitted in a bolt-on housing and getting to this seal to replace it involves stripping off the transmission and driveplate. The rear Crankshaft Seal and housing are as a single part that cannot be worked on without several special tools. Starting with the removal of the transmission, then follows the oil pan accompanied by the driveplate. Next, take off the rear Crankshaft Seal housing screws and the housing as well; New oil seal housing should then be fitted at the crankshaft section with the assistance of a guide tool. After the Crankshaft Seal housing is in place and the bolts are tightened somewhat, put on particular equipment on the rails of the oil pan. It is then necessary to press the Crankshaft Seal housing evenly and tighten the Crankshaft Seal housing retainer bolts to the stated torque and thereby ensure that the housing lies flush with the plane of the oil pan mating surface of the engine and avoid oil leaks. All the other parts of the installation occur in a sequence opposite to that of removal.

One of the characteristics of all models is the use of a one-piece rear Crankshaft Seal, which is placed in a bolted-on housing. Replacing this seal requires removal of the transmission and driveplate. These parts are considered as one and serviced together when they fail. Some special tools will be needed as well during this procedure. Get rid of the transmission and the oil pan. The driveplate needs to be detached too. The rear Crankshaft Seal housing bolts should now be removed including its housing itself. A special guide tool is used to install the new Crankshaft Seal housing onto its crankshaft. After installation, attach special alignment tools on the oil pan rails while keeping it slightly tight with bolts on the Crankshaft Seal housing; move it around evenly up against it. The tightening sequence for these retainer bolts using even pressure across the bolt head or nut ensures that surrounding areas meet torque requirements. The housing must be flush with the plane of the oil pan mating surface of the engine to prevent oil leaks. The remainder of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Since 2007, you can't just replace the rear Crankshaft Seal. Instead, you have to replace the entire crankshaft seal retainer/housing unit. When we take out the crankshaft seal retainer/housing, we must buy a new one. In V8 engines, the one-piece rear Crankshaft Seal installs into a bolt-on housing, meant to be replaced after taking out both transmission and driveplate/flywheel. Begin with draining your engine oil, then take off the oil pan. Unscrew the bolts that hold the crankshaft seal retainer housing on, and discard the complete assembly when removing it away from the crankshaft tip. Using a new gasket, lay the seal housing over the crankshaft and bolt it to the block. Tighten the bolts in an X-pattern to the right torque value. After uncoupling everything during removal, putting it all back in place happens in the opposite order.

The crankshaft pulley must be taken off the engine. Removing the seal can be done with the help of a seal removal tool or a large screwdriver; see to it that the seal bore and the crankshaft are not damaged when doing it. It is also important not to rub, scratch, gouge or distort the region that forms the seal for this may cause an oil leakage. Scrub the bore area with a view of removing old seal material plus any rust. Align the new seal within the bore with it's seal lip which is often the side with incorporated spring facing the inner side of the engine. During installation of the new seal it will be easier if a little oil is applied to the outer edges of the seal. Force the seal into the bore using a seal driver or a large socket and hammer until the seal is flush to the cover flange, thus the socket should be of the same size as the outside diameter of the seal and the new seal should be forced right to the bottom. Grease the seal lips and replace the crankshaft pulley. To do this reverse the process you used to remove the oil, complete the installation process and run the engine for a while checking if there is any leakage of oil.

Remove the crankshaft pulley from the engine. Carefully pry the seal out of the cover with a seal removal tool or a large screwdriver, being careful not to nick or gouge the seal bore or the crankshaft. Be careful not to scratch, gouge or distort the area that the seal fits into or an oil leak will develop. Clean the bore to remove any old seal material and corrosion. Position the new seal in the bore with the seal lip (usually the side with the spring) facing IN (toward the engine). A small amount of oil applied to the outer edge of the new seal will make installation easier - but don't overdo it! Drive the seal into the bore with a seal driver or a large socket and hammer until it's completely seated. Use a seal driver or a large socket to drive the new seal into the cover. Select a socket that's the same outside diameter as the seal and make sure the new seal is pressed into place until it bottoms against the cover flange. Lubricate the seal lips with engine oil and reinstall the crankshaft pulley. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Run the engine and check for oil leaks.

Rear seal removal and installation for the diesel engine is similar to that of the gasoline engines. Remove the transmission and the clutch if working with a manual transmission. Mark the position of the flywheel or driveplate, then remove it and any adapter plate. Carefully drill a few holes through the Crankshaft Seal, avoiding contact with the crankshaft. Install sheet metal or wood screws into the holes and use a slide hammer, pry bar or a claw hammer to pull the seal out. Thoroughly clean the seal bore and the crankshaft and wipe off all traces of oil. CAUTION: DO NOT use oil on the seal lip or crankshaft during installation; the crankshaft sealing surface and the Crankshaft Seal must be clean and dry of oil or leaks may result. Soapy water can be used as an assembly lubricant if necessary. If the crankshaft is worn at the seal contact area, install a crankshaft sleeve over it. Install the new seal along with the installation pilot tool onto the crankshaft, then remove the pilot. Use a seal installation tool, a large socket or a steel plate and a hammer to drive the seal into place. Drive it in evenly and don't allow it to tilt. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.

These types of models feature a single-piece rear Crankshaft Seal that is packed between the engine block and the lower main bearing cap assembly. This requires taking out the transmission as well as flywheel/drive plate for having it done. The screwdriver will remove this seal from the engine block, but be careful not to score the crankshaft surface. When there is damage at crankshaft then new seal will leak. Put tape around the lip of screwdriver blade to avoid damaging it. Take clean shop towel and carefully wipe off anything remaining on seal bore in block. Remove oil and dirt completely. Carefully place the seal over end of crankshaft after lubricating its lip with fresh engine oil. Make sure the lip of the seal points toward the engine. Normally, use a special tool designed for installation of this kind (available in most car parts shops) that should be applied on pressing back into places such new seals if necessary. Make sure that the new seals are driven squarely into their bores flush with rear face of engine block. Rest of job involves putting everything back together again according to removal process.

These types of models feature a single-piece rear Crankshaft Seal that is packed between the engine block and the lower main bearing cap assembly. This requires taking out the transmission as well as flywheel/drive plate for having it done. The screwdriver will remove this seal from the engine block, but be careful not to score the crankshaft surface. When there is damage at crankshaft then new seal will leak. Put tape around the lip of screwdriver blade to avoid damaging it. Take clean shop towel and carefully wipe off anything remaining on seal bore in block. Remove oil and dirt completely. Carefully place the seal over end of crankshaft after lubricating its lip with fresh engine oil. Make sure the lip of the seal points toward the engine. Normally, use a special tool designed for installation of this kind (available in most car parts shops) that should be applied on pressing back into places such new seals if necessary. Make sure that the new seals are driven squarely into their bores flush with rear face of engine block. Rest of job involves putting everything back together again according to removal process.

All of these models employ a single-piece rear Crankshaft Seal housed between the engine block and the lower main bearing cap assembly which is commonly referred to as a bed plate. This seal can be replaced only with the removal of the transmission and driveplate. The seal can be removed through gently pulling out the screwdriver through the seal and damaging the crankshaft surface; there are seal removal tools in the market or you can cover the screwdriver head with a tape before using it. Before passing on to the next step, it is necessary to clean the seal bore in the block with a shop towel using water with some oil solution sparing no effort to ensure that this area is free from oil and dirt. The seal lip must be coated in clean engine oil and must then be fitted over the end of the crankshaft; the lip must face towards the engine. To install the new seal, a seal installation tool that is easily bought at most auto parts shops should be used to tap the new seal into place nearly into the seal bore and in line with the rear of the engine block. The remaining procedures for installation are the inverse of those for removal.

Take off the crankshaft pulley on the engine. Very gently remove the seal from its cover using a seal removal tool or a big screwdriver; be very cautious not to harm the seal bore or the crankshaft since slight scratches or distortions on the place where the seal has to fit can cause leakage of oil. Remove any old seal material and any signs of corrosion from the bore then place the new seal with the seal lip, that is usually the side with the spring facing, inward towards the engine cylinder. It has been observed that the installation of new seal can be eased by applying an oil on the outer radius of the new seal. Insert the seal into the bore employing a seal driver or a large socket and hammer in order to confirm that the socket of the seal types is compatible with the outside diameter of the seal and that the seal fits tightly into the bore and bottoms on the cover flange. Oil the seal lips and replace the crankshaft pulley and reassemble the parts in the reverse order taken to remove them, run the engine to check for oil leaks.

Remove the oil pans. Remove the driveplate. Unbolt the seal retainer from the engine block and slide the retainer and seal off the end of the crankshaft. Note: The rear Crankshaft Seal has been incorporated into the seal retainer and must be replaced as a unit. Clean the engine block, oil pan and crankshaft. The new seal and retainer assembly comes with a plastic installation sleeve; make sure it's in place. Apply a 1/4-inch bead of RTV sealant where the lower corners of the seal retainer meet the oil pan. Place the assembly over the crankshaft and push it squarely into place, making sure the dowels in the seal retainer engage the locating holes in the engine block. Install, but don't fully tighten, the seal retainer bolts. Remove the plastic installation sleeve, then tighten the bolts, using an alternating pattern, to the torque. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.

Disconnect the cables from the negative terminals of the batteries. Remove the drivebelt. Drain sufficient coolant into a clean container. Remove the upper radiator hose. Detach the coolant reservoir hose from the radiator. Remove the windshield washer bottle. Remove the viscous fan and drive assembly, then remove the fan shroud and fan. Remove the fan support from the engine. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the mounting bolts, then remove the crankshaft damper. Remove the power steering pump. Remove the drivebelt tensioner. Remove the gear cover mounting bolts. Carefully pry the cover from the front of the engine, taking care to avoid damaging the sealing surface. Place the cover on wooden blocks and use a hammer and punch to drive the seal out from the rear. Carefully inspect the damper for signs of fluid leakage. Thoroughly clean the new seal and the seal bore in the cover. Remove any old sealer. Straighten the cover if necessary by tapping the sealing surface on a flat area with a hammer. It must be flat before installation. Clean the sealing surfaces of the cover and the block with brake system cleaner when finished. Check the crankcase snout for nicks or burrs. Dress any imperfections with a small file. Place the cover on wooden blocks. Apply stud and bearing mount compound to the outside of the new seal, then tap it into place using a large socket or a seal installation tool. Install the alignment pilot tool into the seal. Apply a bead of RTV sealant to the sealing surface of the cover. Install the cover and all of the bolts. Hand tighten a couple of the bolts to secure it in position. The seal alignment tool must be in place. Tighten the bolts evenly to the torque. Make sure that the seal alignment tool is correctly located while this is done, then remove the tool. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.

In order to remove the crankshaft pulley, use a screwdriver or a hook tool to gently prise out the seal. Be careful not to damage the oil pump cover bore or the crankshaft. Otherwise drill small holes on either side of the seal and use self-tapping screws to pull it out. If the chain is slack being replaced when removing the timing chain cover prop up it with two blocks of wood at one end and tap out the seal from its rear side by using a hammer and punch. Apply clean engine oil or multi-purpose grease to the outer edge of the new seal and install it in this cover with its lip facing inward. Use a big socket or drive a seal driver in order to position those seals accordingly, hit them with hammers till they get seated right. Inspect whether there are grooves which may appear on the surface where an oil seal runs along and change such pulleys in case of any presence thereof. Grease that hub of this pulley with fresh engine oil before positioning it.

In order to remove the crankshaft pulley, use a screwdriver or a hook tool to gently prise out the seal. Be careful not to damage the oil pump cover bore or the crankshaft. Otherwise drill small holes on either side of the seal and use self-tapping screws to pull it out. If the chain is slack being replaced when removing the timing chain cover prop up it with two blocks of wood at one end and tap out the seal from its rear side by using a hammer and punch. Apply clean engine oil or multi-purpose grease to the outer edge of the new seal and install it in this cover with its lip facing inward. Use a big socket or drive a seal driver in order to position those seals accordingly, hit them with hammers till they get seated right. Inspect whether there are grooves which may appear on the surface where an oil seal runs along and change such pulleys in case of any presence thereof. Grease that hub of this pulley with fresh engine oil before positioning it.